Download our application guide for a complete trim guide (pdf)
View trims in our product list
- Take care when handling trims. The edges can be sharp. Use gloves.
- Edge trims are manufactured in GRP. One side has a high-adhesion finish (matt finish); the other side has a glossy finish. Always bond to the matt high-adhesion side.
- If you need to bond to the glossier side rub down with 40-60 grit aluminium oxide paper.
- All trims must be fixed with felt nails or staples to the decking board.
- Use silicone sealant only to secure C trims into walls. Use Matrix Trim Sealant to fix all other trims. Do not use general-purpose mastics.
- Installation diagrams can be found in the Short Introduction Guide – Page 3 – Trims. Note edge trims should be secured to batten(s) with Matrix Trim Sealant.
- Wipe bare surface of trims with acetone before applying Premium Topcoat.
Cutting and extending trims
- Edge trims are supplied in 3m lengths. They will need to be shortened or lengthened to fit the roof.
- Trims are best cut using a 100-115mm diamond tipped blade on a mini-grinder.
- Trims can also be cut using a panel saw, hack saw or electric jig saw with a fibreglass blade.
- Trims can be lengthened by joining them with Matrix PU Trim sealant – slot one trim into another of the same profile (overlap about 50mm) and apply two beads of sealant – one beneath each edge back and front. Rub the jointed trims to engage the sealant, push together and fix to the deck.
- Fix the trims to the decking boards using 13mm galvanised clout nails or staple gun. Hold the trim in place ensuring the face is vertical. Drive fixings in at each end, then the middle and then at 200mm centres thereafter.
- See installation guide for trim-to-trim compatibility and pre-made corner selection.
‘A’ Profile Drip Trims
A170 (small roof) A200 (standard) A250 (warm roof)
- The A type trim is a drip trim and allows rainwater to flow into the gutter.
- Two support battens should be fixed to the roof perimeter to off-set the trim drip above the gutter.
- Attach the outer batten 10mm lower than the inner batten to accommodate the top radius corner of the trim (thus allowing the trim to sit flush with the roof)
- Apply Matrix Trim Adhesive at 200mm centres then ‘rub’ the trim into place on the adhesive and nail trim to the decking. Do not nail through the front of the trim.
- Rebate the trim if required. (see Boards and Decking)
‘B’ Profile Raised Edge Trims
B230 (small roof) B260 (standard roof) B300 (warm roof)
- The B Trim should be supported by a single batten fixed to the roof perimeter at deck level.
- Fix the trim to the batten with Matrix Trim Adhesive to the batten (See A Trim above)
- Do not nail through the front of the trim.
- To construct a ladder support slot a section (500mm) of B trim onto the existing B trim and secure using Matrix Trim Adhesive. Neatly tool the sealant at the edges to finish.
‘C’ Profile Simulated Lead Flashing
- The C type trims can replace lead flashings.
- Do not topcoat C type trims.
- The C trim should be fitted into the bed joint of the brickwork or into a suitable chase cut with an angle grinder fitted with a mortar chase disc
- Apply Matrix Trim Adhesive (beads at 300mm centres) to the back of the C trim to bond it to the surface of the D trim below
- Fully fit the trim into the wall slot and press firmly to engage the adhesive onto the D trim.
- To secure the trim into the wall apply a clear silicone sealant into the chase. A smooth finish can be obtained by wiping the sealant with a moistened (gloved) finger.
- Pre-made corners (internal and external) are available for C100 profile trims
C Type Trim Details:
- C100: Standard simulated lead flashing with 100mm vertical face and 35mm wall penetration.
- C100MT: As C100 with self securing moisture trap.
- C100L (Long leg): As C100 with 50mm wall penetration.
- C100LMT (Long leg with Moisture Trap): As C100 with 50mm wall penetration and self securing moisture trap.
- C150: Simulated lead flashing with 150mm vertical face and 35mm wall penetration.
- C150MT (Moisture Trap): As C150 with an integral, self-securing moisture trap.
- C150L (Long leg): As C150 with 50mm wall penetration.
D type Fillet Trim
D260 (small and medium roof) D300 (large roof)
- Fillet Trims are used to terminate the GRP deck against walls and abutment walls.
- Fillet Trims accommodate expansion and facilitate ventilation.
- Use Fillet Trims to edge skylights and other additions to the roof which require apertures cut through the deck. (apertures are potential stress risers)
- Locate the Fillet Trim by placing it against the vertical wall face and pushing it down into the corner. Fix with felt nails or staples.
- To lengthen the fillet trim overlap trims by 50mm and apply two beads of Matrix Trim Adhesive between the trim faces and at both ends of the overlap. Press together and fix.
- Tool-off excess adhesive and finish joint with a 75mm 450g GRP bandage.
D Type Trim Details:
- D260: Angle fillet trim with 135 and 70mm flanges.
- D300: Angle fillet trim with 175mm and 70mm flanges
‘F’ Profile Trims
- F Trim is a flat GRP trim supplied in 20M rolls in widths of 150mm/300mm/600mm/900mm
- Apply laminate to the matt finish side.
- F Trim is flexible – it can be bent through more than 90 degrees longitudinally .
- F Trim can be used as a lay-board to resolve a GRP deck to a tiled roof – bend it up under the tiles and fix to the deck with felt nails or staples.
- Bandage trim to deck joints
- F Trim is particularly useful for constructing new curved valley gutters between abutment walls or tiled roofs. Use with C Type trims in valley gutter/wall applications. Contact Matrix for details
- F Trim allows for expansion and can be configured into more complex expansion joints. Contact Matrix for advice and details
- There are many other applications for F trim including vertical details where laminating would be time consuming or where it is impractical to clear a roof before applying a GRP laminate; for example - slipped beneath the supports of air conditioning units to enable re-roofing without disconnecting or removing machinery.
AT195 Internal and External Trims.
- The AT 195 trim is essentially a 90 deg corner trim which can be used to cover an internal or external step edge or internal step corner. It allows the continuation of a laminate through a sharp internal or external right angle.
- The AT195 internal trim (matt finish on the internal fascia) is used for internal corners.
- The AT195 external trim (matt finish on the outer fascia) is used for external capping applications
- Both edges should be mechanically fixed with nails or staples.
G180 Gutter trim
- The G180 trim is used to improve drainage on larger roofs.
- Cut the decking to form an adequate gap into which the trim can be fitted. The flanges of the trim should be parallel with the decking cuts.
- Rebate the boards (2mm) to allow the trim edge to sit flush in the deck.
- Nail the trim to the decking at 300mm centres
- Bandage the trim edges and apply the laminate over the trim
E280 Expansion Join Trim
- The E280 allows movement and is used to construct expansion joints on large roofs
- Roofs up to 100m2 (and where no single side exceeds 10m in length) generally do not require expansion joints. If in doubt contact Matrix
- Expansion joints are very important in larger roofs – it is essential to contact Matrix for advice where the roof area exceeds 100m2
- E280 trims can be used to create roll or ridge details and finished with C5 end closures.
- To install an expansion joint cut an expansion gap in the deck (approx 25mm-50mm). Support with joists or noggins. Apply the E280 trim over the expansion gap and fix with felt nails or staples at 300mm centres.
- Bandage the trim edges and laminate over the entire trim.
- Extend E280 as required with 50mm overlaps and two beads of Matrix Trim Adhesive.
E35/45 Simulated Lead Roll Trim
- To join trims at corner intersections use pre-made trims (see application guide (pdf) for trim/corner compatibility).
- C2 corners are handed. Order carefully. C2 corners may need cutting.
- Where there is no pre-made corner available (eg A170 to B230) you will need to fabricate a corner in-situ by cutting the trims to form a suitable mitre joint. (see Cutting Trims)
- Use 450g glass bandage to complete the corner – it conforms better than heavier glass mats
- The “tack” of the resin (its ability to hold the glass in place) can be increased by adding colloidal silica to the resin (contact Matrix for details)
- Use two layers of 450g glass bandage off set and taper the edges into the trims
- Finish the corner laminates with glass tissue for a smoother finish
- Gaps between dissimilar trims (A type to B type) or gaps at ill-fitting corners can be overcome by using masking tape to support a laminate over gaps until it cures.
- Fabricated corners can reduce costs.
- Fabricated corners can be made neatly with practice
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